Showing posts with label Build. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Build. Show all posts

Modern Hot Rods: Build on a Budget!

I have been asked this question a lot and have seen it asked a lot as well. What are the modern Hot Rods? What cars can be considered the Modern Hot Rods? Usually when this question is asked either someone says that there are no modern Hot Rods that Hot Rods are a 65 and older thing, or someone will say that the Imports are the new Hot Rods or the lower riders or the brand new mustang is. Really however, none of these are the Modern Hot Rods.

You are probably asking yourself "What are the modern Hot Rods?" Well before I get to which cars could actually be considered the modern I want to go over how I determined which cars are the modern Hot Rods.

First thing is Cost: The cost to buy the car and cost of parts.

Second Thing is Mods: What mods are available and how common parts are.

Most of these cars are getting close to 30 years old, kind of like the 32 Fords in the 60s. Most of these cars stock only have around 200 HP but a lot can be done to them for cheap.

Ford F-150, 1980-1986 Cost: $800-$2000

A highly over looked car that can be made into a Hot Rod. These cars are usually just thought of as more of a basic cheap truck or a rednecks toy to go mudding with. However these cars will most likely contain either a 302W or a 351W that parts are easy to find (jegs or summit racing) ad can be built to make some serious power!

Ford Bronco, 1980-1986 Cost: $800-$3000

This Full Size SUV is easy to find and can be found for super cheap. Usually more thought of as a Mud Bogger or a car to make into a Monster Truck. These Ford can be cheaply made into a great Hot Rod. Though it only has about 210 Horsepower stock these trucks will come with a 302W, a 351W or a 351M (the 351Ms aka the Cleveland's are rare though) so they can be made to have some serious power!

Dodge Mirada, 1980-1983, Cost: $500-$2000

The Forgotten Mopar from the early 80s. This was a short lived car at a time when MOPAR was having Financial Troubles (kind of like... we heard all of the Mopar economy jokes) and it was suppose to be a luxury car. However it did not sell as well as the Monte Carlo or Thunderbird and the car has become forgotten over the years...which is great! It's great because I have seen ones that run go for around $700, and these cars come with a 318 stock but you can swap in a 340 or a 360 LA for some series power!

Dodge Aspen, 1976-1980 Cost: $900-$3000

Mopar's late 70s compact/ mid size car. The car did win car of the year for 1976 (though that didn't help the value today) and these cars can be found for dirt cheap in good condition. The Aspen was meant to be a low powered Sport Coupe or an affordable family Sedan; the car even had an R/T package to it. Most Aspens will have the 318 in them but you can get the R/Ts with the 360. You can also find a used 360 for cheap to swap in if you don't like the 318.

Chevy Caprice, 1977-1990 Cost: $2000-$4000

Another over looked car which can be made into a great Hot Rod. The Caprice is usually more seen as a low-rider or a car with big rims but these cars are great platforms for Hot Rods. The 77-79 Models came with the famous Small Block Chevy 350, though only stock rated at 170 HP it can be modified like any other 350 for series horsepower. The later models came with the Chevy 305 which can be built up for power as well but you can also found a used 350 for cheap and swap that into the Caprice.

Chevy Malibu, 1978-1983 Cost: $2000-$4000

Usually thought of as an ugly early 80s car, sometimes even considered a Guido car. The Malibu has actually in the past few years become more popular among drag racers! Mainly do to its straight axle rear wheel drive set up, and you can easily fit in a 350 or something bigger such as a 427 or 454.

Chevy Monte Carlo, 1978-1988 Cost: $2000- $4500

One of the cars from its era that has performance that wasn't the Trans Am, Camaro, or the Mustang. The Monte Carlo is easy to find, it's a bit pricier than the other cars on the list but if you have the money it's worth it! Most Monte Carlos will have either a V6 or the 305 in it, however some actually have a diesel V8. If you don't know anything about diesels I recommend going with a V6 or 305 Carlo than getting a used 350 to swap into it. They can make great drag cars or if you are more into pro-touring they can be pro-touring as well.

Chevy S10, 1985-1993 Cost: $700-$3000

The small compact Pick Up Truck from Chevy. These trucks are a great example of a modern day hot rod, it the 85 through 98 models come stock with a 4.3l (262) V6 which is basically a Chevy 350 missing Cylinders 3 and 6! Performance parts for your 350 such as pistons, rockers, values, and the Edelbrock performer manifold will work on the 4.3l engine. However if you want something with more power you can of course do the 350 swap but others have done 427s and even 454s into this truck. Even though this truck is cheap and not thought of as a Hot Rod by most, there has been Pro Mod S10s! Making this one of the best Hot Rods!

Even though many people don't know about it or don't believe there is, there are more than a few platforms to build a modern Hot Rod and do it on a cheap budget! All of these cars are commonly found on craigslist, and in other used car adds, mods are cheap and parts are affordable and easy to find!

I will do a build article on a few of these rods, but tells use your thoughts on these cars, leave it as a comment below.


Original article

Classic Car Projects - You Can Build Your Own

There has never been a better time to build a muscle car project. The availability of aftermarket parts, crate motors, disc brake kits and other upgrades make almost anything possible. The other plus is the relative low cost of these parts. One can literally start with a bare shell and build a complete top notch car using aftermarket/new parts exclusively. The sky's the limit!!

Another plus with these older era rigs is the simplicity of the cars themselves. They are much easier to work on or build than the newer stuff. No emissions, electronic fuel injection, abs brakes, air bags or any other advanced systems that require extensive specialized training. All the non-sense is outta the way!!

With sites like eBay and Craigslist, there are tons of sources to find solid project cars. You can find just about any make/model imaginable without a lot of effort.

Choosing A Make and Model:

One of the coolest aspects of this whole car building business is choosing your project. You may want to build a numbers matching 100% correct car and re-create a piece of automotive history, or you may want to get an old "mongrel" for cheap and play the creative angle to build something unique. Cost is a big factor here, a highly sought after numbers matching rig is gonna be much more expensive to acquire and build than an old "grocery getter", but both have advantages.

Comparatively, a 1969 RS/SS numbers matching Camaro is gonna fetch top dollar if done well, if being at the top of the food chain is important to you. The same 1969 Camaro with a puny 327/powergide that was never anything more than a basic model is obviously going to cost less initially and be easier to find than the "top dog".

I think the lower model is more fun to build because the sky's the limit. It was never anything special to begin with, so it's really a blank canvas that can be cloned or modified with any crazy mods/upgrades. The engine, tranny, color, pretty much any variable is possible. You really can't do that with an advanced model without de-valuing it.

Wheelin' and Dealin':

There are running, driving cars that need a little tlc, or there are absolute basket cases out there that can be had for cheap. It depends on the amount of ambition you have. I prefer the basket cases for lots of reasons.

The main reason is there are lots of 'em laying around. Lots of guys start these projects with a lot of enthusiasm, but eventually get in over their heads. They don't have the money or the expertise to see the project through to the end, and it becomes a nightmare. It's not unusual to find projects that come with tons of new parts and killer stuff that cost a small fortune, and now the owner just wants it all gone. If a car on jackstands in someones garage disassembled in a billion little pieces doesn't scare you, there are very good deals out there for you.

Assessing The Condition:

The number one thing i look at when assessing any project is structural condition. Look at the frame rails, suspension mounts, crossmembers etc. for damage or rot. Measure the frame diagonally to be sure the frame isn't crooked. Measure from the cowl area to the outer corner of the radiator support to ensure it's dimensionally correct. It doesn't have to measure "dead-nuts" on, but if there's obvious heavy damage you should find it early.

The good news is that any possible damage is fixable! Just because there is a 2 inch square hole rusted through the rear frame rail doesn't mean the car should go to the crusher!! If fact, the more problems you find are just ammunition you can use to get a lower purchase price. DON'T BE AFRAID OF DAMAGE/RUST! It's all fixable.

Look at door hinges and latches. Window regulators. Dashboard wiring. Is the fuel tank dented? Is all the door glass tinted the same? Has someone hacked up the car in any way to do some freaky custom stuff? Are all the nuts/bolts/fasteners there? Brackets? These are often overlooked details that can be a royal pain to deal with later.

It should go without saying to be sure the title is clear. Previously wrecked cars can be re-titled as "salvage" vehicles. This doesn't mean the car is really damaged beyond repair, it means that the insurance company determined that the cost to repair the car at the time of the damage/accident exceeded the value, so it was "totalled". For example if you owned a 1967 Dodge Dart in that was damaged in 1981, it wouldn't take much damage to exceed "book value" on what was at that time a run-of-the-mill grocery getter.

This affects re-sale value more than anything else, it is a mild deterrent from buying the car, but again, it's leverage to negotiate. If you never plan to sell the car, re-sale value wouldn't be an issue.

Practical Thoughts:

It's very possible to spend years looking for a "perfect project". The problem with that type of conservative thinking is that you'll never find anything "perfect". At some point, you have to stop picking every prospective car to death and jump into the game. For example, is a carved up dashboard really going to be the difference in a successful build and a life altering nightmare? It doesn't take long on any project to find surprises, dealing with them without catastrophising them is the difference in cars that get finished and old rustbuckets on jackstands. A finished car with flaws is worth more than a car that'll be perfect someday. There's an old saying in business: At some point it is necessary to shoot the engineers and begin production.

Calculating The Cost To Finish The Build:

This is where most would-be projects go wrong. You should have a clear idea of what it's all gonna cost before you even look at a car. The bad news is these projects can get out of control really quick if you're not careful. The good news is there are lots of good sources for parts, and catalogs to job-cost the project.

A good first time project would be to just re-condition an old rig without a lot of upgrades. You can expand your skills with really super trick stuff after a few builds. It doesn't take long before you'll be able to build about anything you want.

Here's an example of a basic budget for a simple recondition project:

Initial purchase: $4000

Sheetmetal/body parts: $350

Paint/body materials: $800

Rebuild brakes: $175

Rebuilt engine/longblock: $1000

Engine add-ons: $1350

(headers, holley carb, HEI ignition,

trick valve covers, etc.)

Drivetrain upgrades: $300

(u-joints, tranny cooler, steering

linkage, etc)

Bumpers/trim mouldings: $1000

Windshield: $135

Interior Kit: $800

Tires/Wheels: $1200

Misc surprises: $1000

Est cost to build: $12,110

Summary:

Building these cars is a real kick, there is nothing like rescuing an old car with your own hands. The only way to learn to do this is to just get a project and go for it. The good news is it's not that difficult. A willingness to get your hands dirty goes a lot further than high mechanical ability. Someone with basic mechanical aptitude can certainly build a musclecar.

18 wheeler driving musclecar guru. Residing in the pacific northwest.


Original article